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By John, 11 October, 2026

Vichy Carrots

Vichy Carrots

These delicately flavored braised carrots are good with mild flavors. 

The carrots are cut somewhat thin and then braised in butter with a minerally, somewhat saline sparkling water, the minerals of which help to soften the carrot fibers. As they cook, the butter glazes the carrots while the water tenderizes them.

The water used is traditionally Vichy Catalan, but you can substitute the more widely available Gerolsteiner Sparkling Mineral Water or Mineragua for a similar flavor and tenderness. 

By John, 11 October, 2026

Crab Louie Salad

Crab Louie Salad

An authentic traditional Crab Louie salad is a composed West Coast classic featuring a generous mound of fresh Dungeness crab meat on a bed of crisp iceberg or romaine lettuce, accompanied by hard-boiled eggs and tomato wedges, all topped with a rich and tangy Louie dressing.

Sources are divided on whether this was developed in San Francisco or Seattle in the early 20th Century. It's a simple salad of Dungeness Crab dressed with Louie Dressing, a sort of piquant version of Thousand Islands Dressing. 

I made this one for a big party, so for portion control I set out the crab in sections of Belgian Endive, it worked out great. 

By John, 10 October, 2026

Seppie in Umido

Cuttlefish in Umido, stewed cuttlefish

I saw a lot of cuttlefish in Venice, but it's hard to find in the USA. I finally found fresh cuttlefish at the Kam Man Asian market in Quincy.

Cuttefish are cephalopod mollusks like squid and octopus. For cooking they are most like squid. 

This is a very traditional recipe from Veneto, the region of northeast Italy that includes Venice. You clean and cut up the cuttlefish meat, saute it briefly in seasoned oil, and simmer gently in tomato sauce until tender. It can also be made with little cuttlefish that must be cleaned and the beaks and ink sacs removed, but they can be otherwise cooked and eaten whole.

By John, 7 August, 2026

Truffle Essence

This is used in some Escoffier recipes, notably the Sauce Perigueux.

Black winter truffles (Tuber melanosporum) are seasonal, so if you want them out of season, you need them preserved. Most commercial preservation methods rely on heat, which reduces the flavor both in strength and complexity. You can preserve them yourself in good quality Madeira. I use Sercial Madeira.

By John, 25 April, 2026

Pasta alla Trapanese

Fusilli alla Trapanese

This is a delicious pasta dish made with the bewitching pink Sicilian Pesto Trapanese, completely different from the green Ligurian pesto so familiar to American diners. The pesto from Trapani uses crushed almonds, tomatoes, and cheese, rather than the basil and pine nuts of the Genoese version.

Unlike northern pasta dishes that are often served with ravioli and other fresh egg pastas, the southern ones are more often served with dried pasta like the wonderful IGP-protected Pasta di Gragnano.

By John, 25 April, 2026

Cod Alla Livornese

Cod alla Livornese

Here's a light fish dish from Livorno, on the Tuscan coast not far from Pisa. It bursts with flavor from tomatoes, capers, and black olives. You can make this with any sort of flaky white fish, or with freshened salt cod (baccalĂ ). It's a great weeknight dish because the whole thing comes together in under 30 minutes, and except for the fish, most of the ingredients may already be in your kitchen.

This can be served on its own or with a side of pasta, rice, or polenta. You can dress it up by adding some mussels or littleneck clams. 

You will deglaze the pan with 1/4 cup of white wine, so pick something that you'd like to drink with dinner!

By John, 1 April, 2026

Pasta all'Aglione

This simple Tuscan dish showcases aglione, the giant mild garlic of southern Tuscany. We know it in this country as elephant garlic, and it's not so easy to find these days; I found the one I used here in a Wegman's Supermarket.

All it is is a puree of elephant garlic fried in oil and then simmered with tomatoes and a chili for 20 minutes. It traditionally served with rustic Tuscan pici, a thick, often hand rolled spaghetti.

By John, 21 December, 2025

Some favorite recipes for chicken

Chicken alla Romana "Sora Lella"These are some of my favorites. Most of them are traditional from somewhere, and they are written according to that tradition, but you can usually substitute breasts for legs, white wine for dry vermouth, etc. All onions get sweeter the longer they cook, but if you have eaters who are resistant to onions, use the milder yellow ones or even the sweet onions from Peru when Vidalias are out of season. The saucier recipes are good over rice or pasta, and the others are good with steamed new potatoes or sliced polenta seared in butter

Chicken alla Romana, from Sora Lella: Easy, light, and colorful from Rome, nice with pasta

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By John, 12 November, 2025

Pasta con la Menta

"Strascinati con la Menta"Here's a nice light pasta dish from Basilicata and Puglia. It has an enchanting summery flavor. Make this when you have plenty of fresh mint on hand. The nights are getting cold, I expect a frost soon, so today I harvested about 10-12 mint plants and this classic recipe was my first thought.

This is traditionally made with strascinati, a sort of stretched orecchiette common in those regions, but any short flat pasta will do.

By John, 25 October, 2025

Syllabub punch

"Syllabub"Syllabub was a crowd-pleaser at Colonial-era fancy balls. It's sweet and foamy and pretty. It's whipped together cream, sweet white wine, and cream sherry with lemon juice and sugar. If you use heavy cream, it whips up nice and thick; you can eat it with a spoon.

For best results, you can't make this one on the spur of the moment, it has to rest overnight for the flavors to come into harmony.

2025 - Northern France, Czechia again, Franconia, and Bavaria

"Normandy architecture"In May of 2025 we finally revisited France and Germany after 10 years, with a few days in Prague and another in western Czechia in between. I had researched the relevant foodways, of course, but Europe is always hard for a vegetarian (Melissa) and southern Germany is terrible for a pescatarian (Lorna). Having no such restrictions, I could eat anything that I liked and I did, but I still lost 10 pounds from all the walking! The obvious conclusion is that, for health reasons, I should spend more time on vacation. 

This trip had four parts:

By John, 17 October, 2025

Polenta baked in the Oven

"Baked Polenta"Polenta is often served soft and hot like mashed potatoes, but it's also really good baked. You cook it on the stiff side, and then spread it in a buttered pan and bake it to get it hot and puffy and a little crispy on the edges.

It is common to layer Fontina, Grana Padano, or other thin-sliced or grated cheese into the polenta, especially if it will be served as an appetizer. If it will be served with fish or with mushrooms, then the flavor of the cheese may clash; while common, it's not necessary.

By John, 17 October, 2025

Trote all'Udinese

"Trout in the style of Udine"Udine is a foodie haven northeast of Venice in Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. It has its own cuisine unlike much of the rest of Italy, heavily influenced by Austiran Alpine cooking.

This is another simple fish dish that's great for a weeknight. This fresh trout baked with lemon juice, olive oil, and marjoram comes together with very little effort and it never fails to please. 

In Udine, this is traditionally served with Polenta baked in the Oven.

By John, 15 October, 2025

Pasta con 'Nduja

"Pasta con Nduja"Here's a spicy treat from hot, sunny Calabria! It's a very simple recipe, but it requires one hard-to-find ingredient: 'Nduja. 'Nduja is a spicy Calabrian paste of fatty pork and fiery Calabrian chilis. The spiciness of the meat is balanced by the sweetness of the onion, which is why you want a sweeter variety like Vidalia. 

And that's all there is to it: Sweet onion and spicy 'Nduja, held together in a smooth tomato sauce, and served over a good toothsome pasta!

By John, 27 September, 2025

Coeur a la Creme

"Coeur a la Creme"This is a beautiful and delicious crowd-pleaser! The "heart of the cream" is a simple combination of cream cheese, heavy cream, and powdered sugar with a touch of vanilla and lemon zest. It makes this beautiful white confection that people always return to for seconds. Dressing it with a bright red raspberry or strawberry sauce makes it even more eye-catching and tasty.

I served this as one of the desserts at the Old Colony Club's 2025 Past Presidents Night Gala, and many people wanted the recipe!

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